The circumnavigation of Sardinia may take about a month, each quadrant can be sailed in a week or ten days. It depends on the wind and the pace we want to give to this adventure.
South West – Cagliari/Arbatax
In the capital of Sardinia, embraced by the Gulf of Angels, you can breathe the sea air steeped in history and beauty. From the sea the city of white stones can be seen spread over its 11 hills. All the roads from the sea lead to Castello district, perched with its walls, ramparts and narrow alleys. Lose yourself in the streets of Marina quarter, where you will feel a multi-ethnic energy vibrating with spicy scents. Restaurants, shops, music – every corner is a piece of the world to experience. You may discover an opportunity to fall in love with the Sun City.
Capitana and Is Mortorius – Beyond the white limestone cliffs of the promontory of Cagliari called Devil’s Saddle, beyond the black and white lighthouse of Capo Sant’Elia, the long white beach of Poetto is waiting for us. And further, one mile from Marina of Capitana, the transparent water becomes emerald and the promontory of Is Mortorius offers shelter from E and NE winds. Beyond it, the anchor can be thrown even with mistral, and the boat will be protected in the shadow of the last world war military base ruins.
Cala Regina and Mari Pintau
High cliffs with one of more than one hundred Aragonese watchtowers of our island are a prelude to pebble beaches like that of Mari Pintau, bathed by an irresistible liquid emerald. Seems that it’s a painting, and it is impossible not to take a dip.
A sequence of golden sand beaches and delightful hidden inlets accompany us from Geremeas to Solanas. We pass by two creeks – Genn’e Mari and Cann’e Sisa next to Torre delle Stelle, a small tourist village on a
promontory that in the evening lights up with a thousand lights.
At the extreme south-eastern tip of Sardinia you enter the Marine Park of Villasimius with its marvellous beaches from Porto Sa Ruxi to Cala Giunco, protected by Capo Carbonara that juts out to touch the island of Cavoli, and yet the suggestive Punta Molentis with its characteristic tombolo, an islet connected to the land by a narrow tongue of shiny sand. In the summer do not miss a walk in the lively downtown.
We sail the pristine east coast with its impressive granite landscapes decorated with Mediterranean vegetation. After leaving the island of Serpentara with the Tower of Luigi in the east, we reach the bay of Cala Pira, whose homonymous coastal tower stands out among dunes and fragrant junipers. White sands of Cala Sinzias beach, called Sardinian Thailand by some, and the long coastline of fine sand of Costa Rei stretch out beyond Punta Capuccini. Sinuous beaches follow up to Porto Corallo, near the mouth of the river Flumendosa.
Capo San Lorenzo/Santa Maria Navarrese
After a few sailing days enjoying the views of the wild coast and the silence of the sea, we arrive at the port of Arbatax, a hospitable village framed by characteristic red rocks. Santa Maria Navarrese is situated a little further north, perfect landing for those who want to disembark and discover a very characteristic corner of the island, ideal for trekking lovers.
North East – Golfo di Orosei/Santa Teresa di Gallura
Golfo di Orosei/Cala Gonone
Magical and wonderful coves that follow each other embraced by the Gulf of Orosei from Cala Goloritzè to Cala Luna, passing through Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriola and Cala Sisine, some pebbled and other sandy. The limestone of the Supramonte is thrown into the sea from the height of vertiginous cliffs. This is an ideal place to create indelible memories between the dives in emerald waters. Cala Gonone is a small port near a crowded tourist resort. If you love diving, take advantage of this place and discover the sea depths.
After Orosei the coast becomes more regular and the gaze returns to settle on long stretches of coves and sandy loops. After Capo Comino we can stop at the Red Island before entering the port of La Caletta. From there the
adventuruos can set off to the hinterland to look for quaint villages and delicious food or discover beautiful beaches like that of Tiriarzu.
After caressing the crystal clear waters of Porto Ottiolu we let the boat slide northwards until we meet the long and silky beache of San Teodoro with its lagoon mirror behind it. Just beyond it there is wonderful Cala Brandichi, called “Little Thaiti” for a reason. We are in the historical region of Gallura. We will certainly taste a typical dish such as delicious Gallura Soup made with bread, cheese and seafood and we will water it all with an excellent Vermentino wine.
In an area ruled by fanciful forms of granite, the steep limestone island of Tavolara looks at us, imposing. If you love diving, do not miss the opportunity to visit the rich depths of the protected marine area. Even climbing to the top of the island is a sensational experience. To get a special taste of culture plan your trip at the beginning of July, during Tavolara Film Festival.
Olbia, the ancient main town of Gallura is kept in the deepest part of an articulated rias inlet worked by watercourses that shaped bays and long beaches like Pittulongu, Marina Maria and Porto Istana. Further north awaits Porto Rotondo, one of the most renowned resorts by national and international VIPs. Just in time for an aperitif and then let’s go to experience the beauty of small sandy paradises like Portisco, Rena Bianca and Capriccioli. If you like worldly places we can also visit Porto Cervo, our Ichnusa can certainly competevb in the beauty contest with mighty megayachts.
Archipelago of La Maddalena
Behind Capo Ferro starts the magic of the archipelago, where rocks seem to come alive as in a fairytale world. Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi… Major and minor islands deserve a longer stop to appreciate the nuances of the thousand shades of blue sea. You can get anywhere onboard a sailing vessel.
Palau/Santa Teresa di Gallura
Palau, with its curious Roccia dell’Orso, is another gateway to the Archipelago of La Maddalena. Heading to Santa Teresa di Gallura, the coast opens up into long, clear sandy beaches, and offers bays and shelters like the evocative Porto Pozzo fjord. In the renowned beach of Porto Pollo the wind is a great ally for those who love windsurfing and kitesurfing. While the town of Santa Teresa deserves a visit for its colorful houses, small souvenir shops and the imposing tower of Longosardo a stone’s throw from the natural harbor.
North West – Capo Testa/Oristano
Beyond the promontory of Capo Testa, with its rocky ravines and small coves animated by granite sculptures, we sail towards the long sandy landscape of Rena Majore with soft dunes and then the Costa Paradiso with rock amphitheatres that hide enchanting beaches like Li Cossi. The small village of Isola Rossa, fronted by the island of red rocks, gives us a glimpse of a very charming stretch of Sardinia. Consider it if you want to visit the long beaches of Badesi. The picturesque medieval village overlooks us from the cliffs above while we are moored at the Marina of Castelsardo right in the middle of the Gulf of Asinara. Here you can enjoy excellent fish and seafood and watch women making baskets in asphodel, straw or raffia sitting on the doorstep. There are also suggestive Holy Week rites in Castelsardo.
National park of Asinara
If you are in northern Sardinia you can also get on board in Porto Torres or Stintino. Continuing to the west, the passage around the island Asinara and Stintino will always remain imprinted in your mind for the scenic beauty of the sea and white beaches, such as La Pelosa fronted by the island called
Piana and one of many Sardinian coastal towers.
After the tip the coast becomes rocky until it turns into impressive cliffs like those of Capo Caccia that announce our arrival in Alghero. This area is rich in caves and underwater stories and is very popular with divers. Within the protected marine area of Porto Conte there is the largest submerged cave in Europe: the Nereo cave. The Catalan town of Alghero knows how to conquer you with its medieval views, nightlife and delicious dishes such as lobster with tomatoes and onions. Do not miss the evocative rituals and processions of the Holy Week and the
New Year and August holidays with fireworks above the sea.
We sail further along the west coast, open and unrestrained, towards the colorful medieval village of Bosa, at the mouth of the river Temo. There are many beaches, coves and views to admire, such as lunar landscapes of Cane Malu. Also a visit to the panoramic castle of the Malaspina can be very pleasant. The traditional carnival, that animates the narrow streets of the center is truly transgressive.
Everybody searches for Giolzi, the symbolic character, in between wine and Malvasia drinks.
All the coast and hinterland of Oristano area deserve a prolonged visit. There are beaches made of shining quartz beans such as Mari Ermi and Is Aruttas, archaeological sites on the sea like Tharros, the mysteries of the Giant statues of Mont’e Prama and silver ponds. At Capo Nieddu there is even the only sea waterfall in the whole island. Not to mention a gastronomic delight like bottarga! Do not miss the incredible horsemanship that you can experience in mid-February during Sartiglia.
South West – Costa Verde Cagliari
Costa Verde and Iglesiente
After the Gulf of Oristano we sail towards Costa Verde where high rocky ridges alternate with beautiful sandy expanse coronated by high dunes, we can find Sardinian deserts in Pistis, Torre dei Corsari, Piscinas and Scivu . Following the intriguing beach of Capo Pecora, also called bay of dinosaur eggs because of the shape of its huge stones, we reach other beautiful beaches like Portixeddu with its green shale, Cala Domestica, hidden inside a long cove and the delicious Masua with purple stones and a breathtaking seaview. In front of it there
is one of the most famous stacks in Sardinia, Pan di Zucchero, or sugarloaf. There are many signs of the mining past of this area on all the Lamarmora abandoned mines that can be seen from the sea.
Archipelago of Sulcis
It consists of two major islands, Sant’Antioco and San Pietro. Both have scenic coastlines, and there are many shelters and inlets where to take refuge. The latter is often called by the same name as its only town,
Carloforte. It’s one of the most beautiful villages in Italy where locals still speak a dialect of Ligurian origin. Very animated in the summer during Girotonno, tuna gastronomic event, and Crêuza de Mä, dedicated to film music.
Kitesurfers’ paradise, Porto Botte, has a beautiful lagoon, where pink flamingos live. After we will see the beautiful beach of Porto Pino and the high dunes of Is Arenas Biancas. The whole territory around Teulada has emerald-coloured sea but it is impossible to sail there apart from the three summer months because of the military garrison. Nevertheless, we can always a nice spot and shelter among numerous beautiful bays in the vicinity, like Porto Tramatzu and Cala Piscinnì with a large Aragonese watchtower nearby.
Malfatano cape and its tower seem to protect the view of one of the most fascinating beaches of Sardinia, Tuerredda, its and fine and clear sand and its islet. Nonetheless Capo Spartivento with Cala Cipolla beach framed by pink granite rocks and Su Giudeu beach where turquoise sea laps the long golden beach. There are continues coves Campana, Sa Colonia and Chia , the coastal tower dominates the landscape again. A stretch of rocky coast separates us from the beach of Santa Margherita. There are ancient Roman road remains along the coast, still visible at times. After a long sandy expanse, some private beaches, in which we also find a small port, we arrive to Nora, an extraordinary archaeological site on the sea that preserves traces of many Sardinian dominions, from Phoenicians to Romans. Do not miss the Night of the Poets, a festival of arts and poetry, that takes place there in July.
After passing the islet of San Macario we go towards Zavorra cliff, where we see Torre del Diavolo. We enter the Gulf of Angels and we definitely aim towards the city of Cagliari. The white city welcomes us with its vertical skyline, elegant towers, hills, reflected in the ponds, burning sunsets and traces of an ancient history of people and dominations that revive in its monuments.